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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.